I've just been undersealing. I have been rained off, so I still have the off-side front sector to do, and then replace all the wheel arches and plasitc guards from the underside.
But so far i can report that the wheel arches and plasic covers came off without any problems. A small socket setis required and also a star key. There was a couple of 'funny' fasteners, but i got these off and they don't seem that necessary anyway. so getting to the job is ok.
Once the metal has been exposed, you can easily visualize the van eight years or less down the line.....where the rust would be. VW have waxed it, but it is a bit too 'sketchy' for my liking. I worked steadily away and when I looked at what I had done i had a strong sense that I had done the right thing because it looked right, felt right, ready for winter and salt and chippings etc.
From beginning to end it will take two days, starting at first light, and allowing plenty of breaks. Equipment was a good rug, plenty of paintbrushes, white spirit, lots of disposable gloves. I used Hammerite underbody seal. It seems that one 2.5 lt can will do the lot. It goes on well and no drips or anything messy, a dream to use. I once used the pressure spray on another vehicle. I would say just put it on by brush, don't bother with the spray. It is a mucky job, but washing with white spirit and then washing up liquid cleans you up fine.
It really needs to be done asap, and before the winter road salt, of course.
The last vehicle I undersealed did well. The underseal (waxoyl) went a little bit brittle after about 9 years. I had a car before that which was 20-odd years old before I scrapped it. I'd got it given off my father-in-law. He had a brother who worked for the council, and so he used to take it to the yard and get it waxoyl sprayed once a year. So after about 8 years I am going to underseal the van it again, at the end of a summer, after I have taken it down the motorway in heavy rain a few times and gone through a few fords.
There is good clearance beneath the vehicle, and it goes without saying to block it up well so you don't get crushed, because you have to really get beneath it.
PS, I did it by jacking one wheel at a time. I started with the rear.
But so far i can report that the wheel arches and plasic covers came off without any problems. A small socket setis required and also a star key. There was a couple of 'funny' fasteners, but i got these off and they don't seem that necessary anyway. so getting to the job is ok.
Once the metal has been exposed, you can easily visualize the van eight years or less down the line.....where the rust would be. VW have waxed it, but it is a bit too 'sketchy' for my liking. I worked steadily away and when I looked at what I had done i had a strong sense that I had done the right thing because it looked right, felt right, ready for winter and salt and chippings etc.
From beginning to end it will take two days, starting at first light, and allowing plenty of breaks. Equipment was a good rug, plenty of paintbrushes, white spirit, lots of disposable gloves. I used Hammerite underbody seal. It seems that one 2.5 lt can will do the lot. It goes on well and no drips or anything messy, a dream to use. I once used the pressure spray on another vehicle. I would say just put it on by brush, don't bother with the spray. It is a mucky job, but washing with white spirit and then washing up liquid cleans you up fine.
It really needs to be done asap, and before the winter road salt, of course.
The last vehicle I undersealed did well. The underseal (waxoyl) went a little bit brittle after about 9 years. I had a car before that which was 20-odd years old before I scrapped it. I'd got it given off my father-in-law. He had a brother who worked for the council, and so he used to take it to the yard and get it waxoyl sprayed once a year. So after about 8 years I am going to underseal the van it again, at the end of a summer, after I have taken it down the motorway in heavy rain a few times and gone through a few fords.
There is good clearance beneath the vehicle, and it goes without saying to block it up well so you don't get crushed, because you have to really get beneath it.
PS, I did it by jacking one wheel at a time. I started with the rear.
