Permanent 12v under passenger seat?

[t0mb0]

Hi,

I have a T6 with a factory-fitted leisure battery under the passenger seat. Does anyone know if, in this configuration, there is a permanent 12v from the starter battery available under the passenger seat? I know there commonly is, but I'm not sure if the fact I have a factory leisure battery means that the cable that would have been a permanent 12v starter feed is now being used for the split charge output instead?

I've attached a picture in case that helps.

Thanks for any help,

Tom

Under passenger seat

• t0mb0
• 11 Jun 2017
• 1

 

[travelvolts]

Should be on the input side of the maxi fuse.

 

[t0mb0]

Thanks Travelvolts. Excuse my lack of knowledge but is the maxi fuse you're referring to, the obvious little box marked '100' in the picture?

 

[travelvolts]

No, that's a relay. The maxi fuse is just behind it, a kind of light browny colour.

 

[t0mb0]

No, that's a relay. The maxi fuse is just behind it, a kind of light browny colour.

Ah yes, that does look more fuse-like!

Is that '100' relay the one toggled by the bcm split charge system to allow charge to flow to the leisure battery?

 

[Scruffy]

I'm thinking of fitting a 12v outlet under the drivers seat for a 12v cool box. Is there a switched 12v under the seat? or will I have to bring it all the way from the fuse box? I've already got a twin usb in the rear, but you can never have enough it seems. Maybe I should tow a small genny behind the van!

 

[Bigtrucknuts]

Short answer is no.

Long answer is you’ll need to install one yourself.

Iv done it by installing a 110 Ah gel battery split charged via a Cetek charge controller.

But for what you have asked for I’d run a power line from the start battery and a signal line from one of the fuses in the engine bay that is switched live. Take both under the engine and up through a big hole you will find under the drivers seat. Put a relay there and now you have a switched power point to run your fridge from.

 

[rxl79]

Hi

Might be a stupid question but I want to mount a 12v/USB socket to the back of the passenger seat in my T6 Kombi. Can someone explain what cables, fuses and connectors I need to do this? For info I don't have the aux battery fitted.

Any pics would be helpful as my electrical skills are limited.

Cheers

Rich

 

[Dellmassive]

Hi Rich, welcome to the T6F club . . . .

have a look here > Installing 12v Socket /s - How Its Done -

and here > Dellmassive`s -- "how I Done It" -- Thread



and come join the VIP CLUB > VIP Membership | VW T6 Forum - The Dedicated VW Transporter T6 Forum

for all this great stuff, plus much more > Downloads | VW T6 Forum - The Dedicated VW Transporter T6 Forum

.

 

[Rich Green]

Or as an alternative to a relay for smaller loads why not just throw a small contactor in? More reliable and capable of higher loads is required in the future

 

[The Bear78]

Short answer is no.

Long answer is you’ll need to install one yourself.

Iv done it by installing a 110 Ah gel battery split charged via a Cetek charge controller.

But for what you have asked for I’d run a power line from the start battery and a signal line from one of the fuses in the engine bay that is switched live. Take both under the engine and up through a big hole you will find under the drivers seat. Put a relay there and now you have a switched power point to run your fridge from.

I've done something similar as I don't have a leisure battery yet. I took two fused feeds from the e-box (one spare for future proofing). The live one runs to a fuse box under the passenger seat and then on to various lighting and USB consumers via relays which are all activated by an ignition live from the centre dash fusebox. This way there is no risk of a flat battery but also, when I do fit a leisure battery, most of the wiring including a feed for the DC-DC charger is already there.

 

[Pembo]

I've done something similar as I don't have a leisure battery yet. I took two fused feeds from the e-box (one spare for future proofing). The live one runs to a fuse box under the passenger seat and then on to various lighting and USB consumers via relays which are all activated by an ignition live from the centre dash fusebox. This way there is no risk of a flat battery but also, when I do fit a leisure battery, most of the wiring including a feed for the DC-DC charger is already there.

I've done something similar as I don't have a leisure battery yet. I took two fused feeds from the e-box (one spare for future proofing). The live one runs to a fuse box under the passenger seat and then on to various lighting and USB consumers via relays which are all activated by an ignition live from the centre dash fusebox. This way there is no risk of a flat battery but also, when I do fit a leisure battery, most of the wiring including a feed for the DC-DC charger is already there.

Hi if I fitted a battery isolation unit before the feed from the main battery hits the fuse box would this have the same protection as fitting relays (obvs I'd need to turn it on and off manually) thanks Dave

 

[The Bear78]

Speak to the experts such as @travelvolts but I would assume yes, as long as it has a built in low voltage cut off (perhaps they all do?). Don't forget a suitably rated fuse immediately after the battery to protect the cable run.
I used relays primarily to switch my low power interior lights between the BCM controlled "door open" circuit and a manual battery override. This architecture will work from the leisure battrry when fitted.

 

[Pembo]

Speak to the experts such as @travelvolts but I would assume yes, as long as it has a built in low voltage cut off (perhaps they all do?). Don't forget a suitably rated fuse immediately after the battery to protect the cable run.
I used relays primarily to switch my low power interior lights between the BCM controlled "door open" circuit and a manual battery override. This architecture will work from the leisure battrry when fitted.

Thanks for the steer, much appreciated. I've been looking at travelvolts site, just the initial outlay for everything all at once is quite hefty and I'm a bit impatient and want to get things working prior to purchasing my dc to dc and battery

 

[The Bear78]

My thoughts exactly hence the starter battery set up.
I was keen to lay all of the necessary cabling and switches etc in one go so I don't have to keep pulling the interior out.
The big ticket items such as charger, DC -DC and battery certainly add up but I have planned to be able to add a piece every few weeks as funds allow....and save for coilovers.....and wheels...

 

[Pembo]

My thoughts exactly hence the starter battery set up.
I was keen to lay all of the necessary cabling and switches etc in one go so I don't have to keep pulling the interior out.
The big ticket items such as charger, DC -DC and battery certainly add up but I have planned to be able to add a piece every few weeks as funds allow....and save for coilovers.....and wheels...

It certainly does add up! I had to do suspension first as coming from an audi s4 to a t6 was poles apart handling wise I plan to set out the infrastructure for easy switch to dc to dc and battery like yourself, what earth did you use as I've read up on a couple of places but didn't know if one was easier to locate than any of the others? Cheers

 

[The Bear78]

There is a factory one under the passenger seat. Possibly under the drivers too but I haven't looked under there yet.
These are by far the best earthing points to use and I used this for the majority as well as one on each side at the back, just forward of the rear lights. Under the seat I used an earth block/bus bar to connect all the consumer earths to (those that weren't earthed at the rear). The block was then connected to the earth point with a 6mm sq. cable (same size as main feed).
Unfinished pic but hopefully you get the gist. The positive supply at the fuse box has since been insulated....

 

[Pembo]

Brilliant thanks for that and the pic , may seem stupid question but can I use the rear earth and bus bar under the front passenger seat to earth my different appliances or does everything need to come back to the fuse box with bus bar? Eg running live to usb, 12v charger and mood lights on the back panel passenger side, can I save cable and use the earth by the rear light or send everything back to bus bar?

 

[Pembo]

Sorry just thought my bus bar is connected to the chassis earth so it's got to work using both hast it?!

 

[The Bear78]

Yes. Everything will earth back to the battery negative which ever way you go.
For simplicity, using the various factory earth points makes sense and saves additional cable/cost/weight. However, fault finding will be less troublesome if every circuit runs to and from single point.