OEM Webasto Auxiliary Heater To Parking Heater Upgrade

mmi said:
Well, as nothing changes in the fault data I was just wondering if it's just a "ghost fault" because of possibly a checksum failure. So possibly there indeed is a fault isomewhere n the EEPROM and thus the controller refuses to clear the fault, or actually as the fault still exists it simply resurfaces and just returns old fault data (mileage) - just a thouigt? Still a bit puzzling to have two units with same fault :speechless:

But as the desired functionality seems to be correct perhaps just let it be and keep on monitoring?


On T6 the 6E-Roof display unit (J702) is not part of component protection scheme - so highly doubt it. Neither is the 18-Aux.heater (Webasto) (J364).

About T6 component protection - on page 48 in
SSP 561 - The T6 Vehicle Pauly

SSP 561 - The T6 Vehicle

VW Self Study Program
Click to expand...
thanks for the reply. I'll report back when I get somewhere. I'm determined to get this sorted.

If anyone finds the security access code that would be great so I can access the module fully. It is needed in ODIS-E too.

I tried 20103 80782 12345 before locking the module. lock automatically clears after 20 minuets with the ignition switched on.

I think I can do it without the code in ODIS-s using a Geko token, unfortunately I can't get that working yet.

thanks for the Self study, lots of interesting explanation.
 
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I was triple checking my wiring.

I'm getting 11v across the Can H and Can Low. and 0 ohm resistance. With the vehicle powered down but battery connected.

getting a healthy 13v on the red and brown when I open the door and 0 after a few seconds.

I get the same reading at the Can connector under the seat.

Does that sound right?

I am getting the expected 0V and 60 ohms on the main can line high and low pin 9 and 10 under the seat and 6 and 14 on the OBD plug.
 
TALLANDREW said:
I was triple checking my wiring.

I'm getting 11v across the Can H and Can Low.
Click to expand...
This is not normal.
The max voltage between CAN-H and CAN-L should be 2V.
TALLANDREW said:
and 0 ohm resistance. With the vehicle powered down but battery connected.
Click to expand...
You mustn't measure resistance on a live circuit.
You can measure the resistance between CAN-H and CAN-L after disconnecting your battery and expected resistance is 60ohms.
TALLANDREW said:
getting a healthy 13v on the red and brown when I open the door and 0 after a few seconds.
Click to expand...
Weird, roof display should be connected permanently to the battery(aka terminal 30a) via fuse obviously, thus expected voltage should be around 12V, permanently.
 
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Got up early, redid the test

Voltage was steady 13v

But the resistance across the bus is difficult to isolate

Need more time to be sure. It’s very difficult getting fat probes of my digital meter onto the connectors to make a reliable reading.
 
Okay so tonight I didn't leave it until I was tired and I've retested the Can high and Low Communication Lin up to the screen.

With the car powered down and the battery negative removed, it took about 1 hr for the voltage to get to zero. At that point there is 0.L resistance between the Can lines to the screen, at the blue connection T10AF bottom of a pillar and the red connection block T17P under the seat . I got 60 ohms on the vehicle Can system at various locations, white connecter next to blue one and also in red connector under the seat.

I checked the Can which goes to the trailer module because thats under the passenger seat and easy to get too. that had the same reading as the screen and red connector 0.L ohms which I think means the circuits are not connected. I believe the trailer module is connected to the same Can system as the screen and to the J519 onboard supply via the internal connections B397 and B406

I then measure the resistance down each of the can lines to check the quality of my wires and connections. 0.5ohms between screen and red connector T17P, I used AI to calculate resistance on 3m of 0.35m² wire and 0.5 ohms seems okay.

So the big question is why is there no resistance on the data Can lines and is this normal? I think so or the trailer module would also be showing an error.

I did disconnect the the onboard power supply module to get access. really wishing i had done these tests before taking it apart. definitely a tip for future projects.
 
In the end I ordered a new screen from VW, worth asking different dealers for a price I got quite a range. The new screen went in without an error. I then changed the coding to aux heater with remote in vcds I pressed “do it” and it gave me chance to set the default access code. I chose the default code from vcds 12345 and that was accepted.

I rescanned the car and now have a fault free installation. Thanks everyone for your moral and technical support.

Whole project has taken me 5 months and cost a small fortune.

Plus side is I feel quite confident with Odis, vcds and Erwin. I also understand how the bus system works.

The next project is to add the stationary heater to replace the autotherm one. I really hate the controller and it doesn’t put out enough heat to keep the van warm on winter camping trips.

Have a nice evening everyone.
 
Im going to do this mod but do I have to do anything different if I only have manual climatic control?
 
Good question. I don’t think it’s the same but should be possible.

These guys sell 2 kits one for climatronic and the other for climate basic.

www.danhag.de

VW T6

www.danhag.de www.danhag.de
 
I believe the two different Danhag kit versions for Climatronic are to do with how much wiring you want to do. The cheaper kit has a loom you run from the control box under the seat and divert the canbus through it, but it means you have to run the wires from under the seat to the climate controls. The more expensive kit has a second can interface you put behind the climate controls that the control box can talk to over the OEM wiring to save running that cable between the two positions.

The Climatic manual version is a remote relay that needs adding to the fan control. You need to remember to set the fan to the speed you want before leaving the vehicle if you want remote operation as this solution can only turn the fan off and on, the physical control sets the speed.

I'm looking quite seriously at the DanHag option for my 6.1 but not yet sure if they will ship to the UK - it's expensive but for my situation the non invasive nature of the install is an advantage. I may do without the Climatronic integration entirely as for my needs I just want the heater to run while I use the residual heat (REST) option - so a manual switch to start the heater is all I need.
 
I know about the DANHAG kits but I want to do it the oem way if possible.

I think I can manage to make it work for less than 700 euro, like the danhag kit cost.
 
I was looking at the flow diagram and it doesn’t look different between climatronic j255 and climate control j301 They both connect to the bus system and can control the auxiliary heater relay j708 by default. So the process should be the same to connect screen j702 and or remote r149.

The nice thing with the screen is being able to set what the remote does and use cooling function in the summer to purge hot air built up in the vehicle while stood outside in the sun.
 
Hello. Sorry to bring up an old thread. But I was wondering if its possible to just install the overhead display, and just run the aux heater from the display? Og do I need the Remote and telestart unit? 😊
 
Hello again. Im sorry, but maybe I was to fast on the trigger, my car is a t5,1 from 2011, and iv’e been Reading a lot about this mod, I Can see that many sites sell the Telestart module with Remote, and States that the installation do not require any speciels tools or software modifications?

See this link for an exsample: Aufrüstsatz von Zuheizer auf Standheizung für VW T5 mit Webasto T99 F, 308,00 €

Dies some of you know if there are any difference between the installation on the t5,1 vs t6?

Cheers 😊
 
dannielkjaer said:
Hello again. Im sorry, but maybe I was to fast on the trigger, my car is a t5,1 from 2011, and iv’e been Reading a lot about this mod, I Can see that many sites sell the Telestart module with Remote, and States that the installation do not require any speciels tools or software modifications?

See this link for an exsample: Aufrüstsatz von Zuheizer auf Standheizung für VW T5 mit Webasto T99 F, 308,00 €

Dies some of you know if there are any difference between the installation on the t5,1 vs t6?

Cheers 😊
Click to expand...
What year is your car and do you have a Climatronic?
 
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