Moving CU from under seat to under bonnet

The_Lad

Senior Member
T6 Guru
Ok so im looking to replace the CU i have under my passenger seat with a smaller one under the bonnet, currently i have a single mains cable running from under the bonnet into the van and to the consumer unit where i have a MCB and 2 RCDs one for the battery charger and one for the single socket i have in the van

Im wondering will i have to run 2 mains cables from the new CU into the van or would i get away with running the battery charger and a single socket off of a single 10a RCBO in the new CU? Also am i right in thinking by using a RCBO i will not need a MCB so in the new CU i will just have the single trip switch?

should probably add i rarely use the 240 socket in the van but on occasion the Mrs might try to plug in a kettle or haridryer

My other option if i cant run both from the single RCBO then could i fit a inverter to the battery and run the single socket off of the inverter instead?
 
you could locate the battery charger under the bonnet as well and connect it to the starter battery, this would charge the starter battery when on hook up and by default the leisure battery assuming you have some kind of dc-dc charger installed, then use the single cable into the van as a radial circuit and have a couple of sockets for whatever - just a thought
 
If you run low on room, you could fit your charger under the scuttle panel.
 
Im wondering will i have to run 2 mains cables from the new CU into the van or would i get away with running the battery charger and a single socket off of a single 10a RCBO in the new CU? Also am i right in thinking by using a RCBO i will not need a MCB so in the new CU i will just have the single trip switch?
You need to have an RCD function that will disconnect both Line and Neutral as there is a much greater risk on EHU of the wires being accidentally reversed.

A full size independent RCD generally is 2 pole as it is also the isolation switch, most RCBOs do not and only disconnect the Line conductor.

Generally the sockets and charger are fed from separate breakers for discrimination, if you pop the socket breaker your charger doesn't go off. If space is tight and you rarely use the socket you should have space for 3 units in a small enclosure so a 2 unit RCD and a 1 unit MCB should fit fine.

If the occasional loads are a kettle and hair dryer (both quite extreme loads) it would be much better to keep a 240v socket in from the EHU, presumably you can reuse the existing cable, the size of inverter and batteries needed to do that from 12v is going to be a significant investment of money and space.
 
This is the Rcbo I have Wylex 6A 30mA DP Type B Mini RCBO - Screwfix

I think it should disconnect both live and neutral so I’m hoping it’s just this single unit I need in the CU

Am I correct?

If I move the charger to under bonnet how will it charge the leisure battery? I’m using a cttek ds250 and won’t that need an ignition on signal before it connects the 2 batteries? I can’t remember how I wired it up back in 2016
 
This is the Rcbo I have Wylex 6A 30mA DP Type B Mini RCBO - Screwfix

I think it should disconnect both live and neutral so I’m hoping it’s just this single unit I need in the CU

Am I correct?

If I move the charger to under bonnet how will it charge the leisure battery? I’m using a cttek ds250 and won’t that need an ignition on signal before it connects the 2 batteries? I can’t remember how I wired it up back in 2016
I believe this has been discussed elsewhere on the forum. That RCBO you linked will not disconnect both Line and Neutral.
 
I believe this has been discussed elsewhere on the forum. That RCBO you linked will not disconnect both Line and Neutral.
Is there a link to one that will? or links to what i will need to do this safely, i could possibly use the MCB and RCD from my old larger CU but im not they will fit without taking the seat out to check

Edit: After a forum search would this be the safer option and also allow me to use the full 16a available from the EHU https://www.cef.co.uk/catalogue/pro...e-2-module-c-curve-10ka-30ma-type-a-mini-rcbo now im presuming 16a is ok for the artic cable i have run
 
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Is there a link to one that will? or links to what i will need to do this safely, i could possibly use the MCB and RCD from my old larger CU but im not they will fit without taking the seat out to check

Edit: After a forum search would this be the safer option and also allow me to use the full 16a available from the EHU https://www.cef.co.uk/catalogue/pro...e-2-module-c-curve-10ka-30ma-type-a-mini-rcbo now im presuming 16a is ok for the artic cable i have run
Yes, but bare in mind that UK regs now say the breakers have to be the same manufacturer as the CU.

Did you install 1.5 or 2.5mm2 arctic cable? (2.5mm2 is fine for 16A, 1.5mm2 cable is rated up to 16A max)

 
Cheers im not worried about UK regs as long as its safe and works, so in summary the CEF breaker i linked to from the other thread can go in the consumer unit on its own with no other MCB RCD RCBO required and 2.5mm cable will be fine

1.5mm Artic cable would probably be ok as its unlikely i would be drawing 16a continuously but i can use the cable I've run already to draw a thicker one through easily if needed

im also really confused I've read the other thread several times and cant work out what the conclusion was on the RCBO i have currently.

1. It does disconnect both line and neutral when tripped i think everyone agreed on this
2. its a 1p+n device but the other thread seems to still disagree on wether it will trip if the incoming Line and N have been switched? even though the current would be mismatched between the 2 feeds

I've ordered the MGC one anyway now but trying to treat this as a learning curve too
 
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