Main Fuse for vehicle battery?
- Thread starter Rayclash
- Start date
-
- Tags
- vehicle battery
Probably won't blow any fuses because you haven't drawn excessive current.
The problem is you may of damaged any ECU which doesn't have reverse polarity protection. The only way is to connect them up the right way and see what's not working.
edit - you may blow a fuse if you have a 2nd battery
The problem is you may of damaged any ECU which doesn't have reverse polarity protection. The only way is to connect them up the right way and see what's not working.
edit - you may blow a fuse if you have a 2nd battery
I’ll try today. But I suspect a lot of current went somewhere, the lights in the back are on the utility battery and they all work ok. So it would have to be the engine electrics that was affected. ( thanks for all the suggestions chaps)
Battery was brand new. No not checked lights yet. I gave up last night as I didn’t want to knacker anything else in the dark.
Ok so you mean check the battery volts when connected : as if something is faulty it will draw down the battery ?
No, disconnect one or both battery leads, and measure the voltage across the terminals with a voltmeter.
Pete
Ok two vehicles with flat batteries, one Landrover has been flat for a while : needed to move T6 back 4m to under some lights as it was in the dark ( completely dark in a barn ) and I could not see to put in new battery. Used the jump leads on the defender to new battery and moved it out of the way. Wanted to do the same with the T6, I just needed to power up to put it in neutral to push it back, so though I’d do this with its new battery and long truck jump leads - no battery in vehicle ) was dark at the back of a barn : and I just got the leads the wrong was round, pretty stupid I know, it only took 20 seconds for the leads to start to smoke : I kicked the lead off the battery immediately. Didn’t get chance to take it out of park. It’s The DSG model 8 speed dual clutch. Superb bit of kit actually. When it’s not blown up.
Definitely need to check state of the battery with a voltmeter - it may be completely knackered.
For jump leads to melt, we are talking lots of current. There isn’t a fuse of that capacity in the T6 system to my knowledge, so it is more likely that something has melted in the electrics.
I would follow the wires through from the +ve terminal looking for damage.
To be honest though, you need an experienced vehicle electrician here.
Pete
For jump leads to melt, we are talking lots of current. There isn’t a fuse of that capacity in the T6 system to my knowledge, so it is more likely that something has melted in the electrics.
I would follow the wires through from the +ve terminal looking for damage.
To be honest though, you need an experienced vehicle electrician here.
Pete
Not good.
Could be a job for VW Assist or auto electrician to start metering things out.
Master fuse box under battery tray as per above.
Possible ECU, component and loom damage with a reversed battery scenario.
I've seen this before made the alternator go dead short which fried the alternator and took out the loom.
Possible fire risk.... you need to have this looked at by the right people.
VW assist could take a look, then if need be, get it lifted to the dealer.
.....
If it was me,
I'd remove the battery and test it.
I'd check the resistance or impedance of the battery leads to test for shorts.
I'd connect a low current charger, power supply (say 15A) and test the current drawn by the van.
Then scan for modules and start testing circuits.
I'd check every single fuse.
.......
Could be a job for VW Assist or auto electrician to start metering things out.
Master fuse box under battery tray as per above.
Possible ECU, component and loom damage with a reversed battery scenario.
I've seen this before made the alternator go dead short which fried the alternator and took out the loom.
Possible fire risk.... you need to have this looked at by the right people.
VW assist could take a look, then if need be, get it lifted to the dealer.
.....
If it was me,
I'd remove the battery and test it.
I'd check the resistance or impedance of the battery leads to test for shorts.
I'd connect a low current charger, power supply (say 15A) and test the current drawn by the van.
Then scan for modules and start testing circuits.
I'd check every single fuse.
.......
If the leads were smoking, you've drawn a lot of current.
What stopped them smoking? If a fuse blew, it should of stopped smoking but if you pulled the leads off, you may be ok. I can only assume you have a battery to battery charger and hence putting the leads on the wrong way will cause them to smoke.
Disconnecting the second battery including your B2B charger, and then try again with the new battery (if it's ok still). It shouldn't cause the leads to start smoking again, but if it does, you'll have to isolate circuits to find out why. To do this, remove the bolt in fuses under the battery.
What stopped them smoking? If a fuse blew, it should of stopped smoking but if you pulled the leads off, you may be ok. I can only assume you have a battery to battery charger and hence putting the leads on the wrong way will cause them to smoke.
Disconnecting the second battery including your B2B charger, and then try again with the new battery (if it's ok still). It shouldn't cause the leads to start smoking again, but if it does, you'll have to isolate circuits to find out why. To do this, remove the bolt in fuses under the battery.
Similar threads
