Internal lights Wiring

Diesel9a1

Member
T6 Pro
As there are no wiring diagrams for the T6 - no idea how VW managed to wire it all up without them personally, I thought I'd contribute my efforts for internal rear LED Lighting.

Added a couple of LED stick on strips across the rear to help illuminate the "boot" area. Wired in a three way rocker switch On-Off-On and scotchblocked onto the rear roof light. Didn't work properly initially as I had my wires wrong way round and had the switch on the +ve leg instead of the -ve leg.
  • Permanent Live +ve, Red/Black, goes to LED strip lights Positive Terminals.
  • Neutral 0v, from the LED strip lights terminals connects to the centre terminal of the rocker switch.
  • Position 1 of the rocker switch, scotchblocked to Brown/Red of rear roof light. (This is the Timed Neutral)
  • Position 2 of the rocker switch, scotchblocked to Brown of rear roof light. (This is the permanent Neutral).
Switch in position 1 will enable the LED strips to come on then dim off as per the footwell lights etc, when locking and unlocking the doors. They will also go off after a set time conjured up by VW that I doubt we can ever alter.

Switch in position 2 will keep the LED strips on permanently.

Switch in centre position will switch the strips off permanently.

Switch will be installed in the rear left panel. might even pop a changeover switch to allow the lights to run off of the "Yet to be installed" leisure battery instead of van bat. All work in progress, ideas gathering, learning the wiring colours and fusing by trial and error.

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Would it be possible to wire the switch also to my leisure battery for when I intend to leave it on all the time? If so which terminals on the switch would I connect the + and - to.


Sorry if it seems a stupid question but when it comes to electrics I am indeed stupid :(
 
Hi all,
I have a set of footwell lights to fit but not sure where the best place is to pick up the live and earth, I would like them to come on when the doors are opened and dim down with the interior light.
Any tips or photo's would be appreciated.
 
Yes I've read through that as suggested but perhaps its me but I still can't find any reference as to where to pick up the feeds other than vague references to removing the glove box, that i can do but I'd like to know where I connect from there and to what colour coded wires, ?
 
Look for red/black: +ve, and brown/red: -ve. You’ll either find these in the cream plug visible to the LHS of the dash when the glove box is removed or at the bottom of the passenger side b pillar - might only be there in a Kombi.

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And there are wiring diagrams it's just knowing where to find them. Then being able to read then!
 
Look for red/black: +ve, and brown/red: -ve. You’ll either find these in the cream plug visible to the LHS of the dash when the glove box is removed or at the bottom of the passenger side b pillar - might only be there in a Kombi.

View attachment 19855
Look for red/black: +ve, and brown/red: -ve. You’ll either find these in the cream plug visible to the LHS of the dash when the glove box is removed or at the bottom of the passenger side b pillar - might only be there in a Kombi.

Cheers deaky, photo's a great help.
 
In a PV, one common way to do this is to run the cables to the interior light in the roof panel. @Ed Webb did it this way I believe.
I did. With the lights and plug removed you will have 3 wires going into a black plug. One side of the plug is numbered. From memory. 2 is the + feed. 1 is the timed neg and 3 is the constant neg. I know I certainly used 1 and 2 to have my lights activate when you unlock van or open the doors. The colours @Deaky has mentioned above are the same for the roof light.
 
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Hi,

Moving on from this theme as above, I also want to replace the rear task lights with LED strips.

I'm sort of halfway through a camper conversion on a VW T30 LWB. I've had an SCA pop fitted and just the carpeting and finished the templates for the voids left. I have dry fitted three LED profiles (image attached), one N/S and O/S side over future single passenger rib seats and one above the tailgate. I really want to keep the factory functions when the vehicle is first unlocked so long story short:
  • The LED strip lights are RGBW and will each need an individual driver (3 no. in total) so they can be zoned and colour controlled via an remote, e.g. a zoned controller and an individual driver for them.
  • I plan to install an on-off-on rocker switch inline on each light to replicate the factory function of lights on, lights on-fade off, lights off.
I reckon this will be easy to wire up to white single colour LEDs but the idea is to have a linked change colour function:
  • Does anyone know of any issues I should consider before attempting the wiring and buying the remaining components?
  • Should I use a splitter and wire all these lights to a single driver?
  • Is there enough power available from factory battery to run three LEDs drivers (battery voltage is currently monitored via scorpion app)?
  • Is this a bad idea and should I tuck the factory looms away, and wait to run it all off the eventual leisure/onboard wifi set up? There will be other lights in the rear kitchen and WC area.
I'm pretty decent making things/doing domestic stuff but I don't really know the in's and out's of vehicle electrics.

Thanks in advance for any help.

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@Dellmassive wrote a good "How I Done It" thread on this you might find useful


Your main issue will be if you use the factory +12v feed is that it will time out after 20mins until a door opens to save power.
 
The fade is done by PWM on the factory +12v feed - as such it's designed to drive LEDs directly not power another driver. I'd expect the fade to really upset a driver and you might have the lights flashing on and off.

The simplest approach for your situation would be to use the factory permanent ground and door switched ground but take a new +12v from your leisure system. I'd put a switch in that feed somewhere handy so you have a master off switch to stop things draining the leisure battery when you need to.
 
@Dellmassive post here reminded me that fade is also done by the BCM on the "door switch" circuit as that's now done electronically rather than just through the switches.

That may not play well with drivers that are active controllers like RGB/RGBW

 
@Dellmassive wrote a good "How I Done It" thread on this you might find useful


Your main issue will be if you use the factory +12v feed is that it will time out after 20mins until a door opens to save power.I forgot all about the timeout issue. Steers me away from my initial set up. Cheers.
 
Ah yes, I'd forgotten all about the auto fade out. I was thinking there may be some kind of sine wave mismatch function going on in relation to feeding a driver.

@roadtripper Thanks for the nod on @Dellmassive's excellent interior cargo post and the sketched schematic layout within. Very informative and made things much clearer as to how to do it correctly.
 
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