Ice Install, Wiring Routes And Oe Connections

A Brown

Member
Hi all, I'm about to install a half decent ICE set up but after a lot of searches I can't find some information that may help speed things up, so if anyone can help me out that would be very much appreciated, I'll list the questions I have below! I've spent quite a while gathering some good quality kit, and for less than £570 all in with only the active sub second hand, for the specs of each item I think that's very reasonable, I've just got to install it now (or find a very reputable local person who can!)...

The plan:
Retain OE head unit.
Stealth install without having to strip the camper too far (hence using speaker level inputs)
Keep cost to a decent value for money ratio.
Plenty of clean volume up front without being bass heavy.

Spec:
Mosconi Pico 2 mini amp for front, 2x80WRMS (use speaker level input, using auto sense turn on) behind dash.
Focal ISU 200 components in the front OE locations, 8" MDF speaker adaptor rings.
Lots of Deadmat (VLTUK stuff I've used before) and open cell foam for doors.

Polk Auido DB6501 components in the rear, I got the gold ones to match the van :rofl: (remove the Kenwood 2 way 6.5" already fitted by Autohaus, or perhaps move them to the rear boot area and use the spare channels on the amp).
Pioneer GM-D8604, 4x 100WRMS class D amp for rear (only use 2 channels using rear speaker level inputs, auto sensing so no remote needed, use pre-out on this amp to drive the sub).
Pheonix Gold PG X8150 active slimline sub under RIB bed, or preferably under a front seat if I can get it in.

Rockford Fosgate 4AWG OFC wiring for rear amps and OFC speaker cable.
6mm2 OFC Tri Rated BS6231 53A cable for Pico amp.

Questions!

1. Im going to use two 'mini blade fuse piggy backs/take offs' (15A fuse each from in the front lower fuse panel) and join them to provide the PICO amp with plenty of headroom (30A) - will that cause any CANBUS errors??? Or am I easier just running a fused supply from the main battery under the bonnet?

2. The front components: as there is already a mid and tweeter as standard, where/how do the tweeter/mid speaker wires join??? Is there an easy location within the dash to put the crossovers then retain the OE cables to the new door 8" mid and A pillar tweeter? I am assuming the OE head unit output is wired in parallel to the OE mid/tweeeter, or is it one wire to the mid, then back out the through the door jamb up to the tweeter???

3. I have a decent leisure battery with split charger and solar charger (Autohaus fitted). Can or indeed should I run the rear amps' main power from this or will this cause problems???

4. If I'm not able to use the leisure battery, I am extremely reluctant to pull up the floors to run a 4AWG cable to the rear seats, is there a better way under the van using OE grommets or a simple route through the van without tearing loads out???

Sorry for the essay! Im just keen to make sure things are done perfectly and without damage or a cable in sight!!!
:):):):):):):):):):):):):):):):):):):):):):):):):):)
 
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A Brown

Member
Be careful on the alternator charging 'spikes'.

How do you mean Fish? Turn on spikes through the dash fuse panel from the amps? I understand the alternator isn't cheap and is a smart charging system hence asking about where best to take the feeds from, are there any easy wins to avoid this?
 

Deaky

Keep out th’oss road
VCDS User
Moderator
VIP Member
T6 Legend
One problem I found using auto sense to turn the amps on is if your not listening to music but you have the sat nav voice guidance on, you’ll sometimes miss the start of some instructions as it takes a second or two for the amps to kick in. I’ve switched my amps to on with the ignition to avoid this problem. It would be great if there was a remote out on the back of the head unit.
 

Absolut5

Senior ICE man
Trade Member
T6 Legend
Questions!

1. Im going to use two 'mini blade fuse piggy backs/take offs' (15A fuse each from in the front lower fuse panel) and join them to provide the PICO amp with plenty of headroom (30A) - will that cause any CANBUS errors??? Or am I easier just running a fused supply from the main battery under the bonnet?

Answer-
Take your amp power directly of the starter battery or leisure

2. The front components: as there is already a mid and tweeter as standard, where/how do the tweeter/mid speaker wires join??? Is there an easy location within the dash to put the crossovers then retain the OE cables to the new door 8" mid and A pillar tweeter? I am assuming the OE head unit output is wired in parallel to the OE mid/tweeeter, or is it one wire to the mid, then back out the through the door jamb up to the tweeter???

Answer-
2 ways- firstly you can use the Oe wiring and use the inline Focal filters between the Oe plugs and new speakers, we could have supplied this kit as a plug and play.then run the amp wire back up to the headunit
Secondary, my preference is run new cable directly from amp to the new speakers

3. I have a decent leisure battery with split charger and solar charger (Autohaus fitted). Can or indeed should I run the rear amps' main power from this or will this cause problems???

Answer-
yes you can run amps from the leisure battery

4. If I'm not able to use the leisure battery, I am extremely reluctant to pull up the floors to run a 4AWG cable to the rear seats, is there a better way under the van using OE grommets or a simple route through the van without tearing loads out???

Answer-when doing any audio install I suggest removing as much as possible, for a easier, neater install and less chance of picking up interference

Lastly we now do a plug and play loom which has rca output plus a switch feed which works better than amp sense switch on

Regards
Jason
 

A Brown

Member
One problem I found using auto sense to turn the amps on is if your not listening to music but you have the sat nav voice guidance on, you’ll sometimes miss the start of some instructions as it takes a second or two for the amps to kick in. I’ve switched my amps to on with the ignition to avoid this problem. It would be great if there was a remote out on the back of the head unit.

That’s a really useful tip, and something I hadn’t considered! THANK YOU!
 

A Brown

Member
@Absolut5 Jason, thankyou for taking your time to answer so comprehensively! I didn’t know you were doing the kits or were such an active and supportive member, I will certainly try and support you and your business in future, which will no doubt save me time and money in the long run! I’ve been gathering the items over a long period based on previous ICE experience (10+ years ago ... how thing have moved on!!!!!). I’ve just managed to drive the internet to your webpage too,

Would you be interested in installing the kit? I know you are some distance from Plymouth but if I can tie it in with a visit to friends your way it may
 

A Brown

Member
Would you be interested in installing the kit? I know you are some distance from Plymouth but I travel your way infrequently, if so would you mind messaging me an estimate of time/cost? If not is there anyone more local to devon you know of and would recommend?

Also how much are your looms? I can’t see them on your website (probably me being daft) That may save me using a piggy back fuse from the ignition live for the amps!

Finally, I’ve read about speaker splash covers? Are they really needed for the doors or is there a better way?
 

Absolut5

Senior ICE man
Trade Member
T6 Legend
Would you be interested in installing the kit? I know you are some distance from Plymouth but I travel your way infrequently, if so would you mind messaging me an estimate of time/cost? If not is there anyone more local to devon you know of and would recommend?

Also how much are your looms? I can’t see them on your website (probably me being daft) That may save me using a piggy back fuse from the ignition live for the amps!

Finally, I’ve read about speaker splash covers? Are they really needed for the doors or is there a better way?

Hiya

Not a problem answering any questions, we have been support owners since the T4 day’s, and have been a trader on the T4 forum for a number of years, then this excellent forum, where you get honest opinions and great advice from many members/traders

Yes we would be able to install for you, but I suggest changing a few things first.

The PG active sub will not give anywhere enough output no many where you position it, if you have a complete empty front seat position then a 10” sub under one of these will be night and day above the PG

Component speakers are not really worth installing at the rear..

This is what I suggest with the list of your products-

Polk Audio at the front or Focal, but if running a 10” sub under the seat then Polk
Pioneer amp running the polks and sub under the front seat (if space)
Maybe Mosconi amp on rears

Our amp adapters start from £45.00 for 2 channel or £65.00 for a 4 channel

No need to purchase splash covers when you can create one FOC when doing the install
 

A Brown

Member
Thanks for the advice! I don’t have a front seat spare for a sub, which is a shame as it was my first thought. As there are some cheap Co-Ax speakers in the back and the children love their music too I wanted the back to sound good too hence the initial plan, the looms sound a really good price too! Thanks Jason!
 

Absolut5

Senior ICE man
Trade Member
T6 Legend
Understand.. but you don’t want the rear to be to dominate otherwise you might as well throw your hard earned cash out the window because it will destroy the front sound stage/stereo separation
 

A Brown

Member
Ah I get your thoughts now, that’s a good point!

The passenger captain seat has a Webasto heater duct under it which exits at the rear of the lower seat cover into the back, I wouldn’t want to move it but could possibly build around it for a reduced volume enclosure or the bigger amp, so that could work. I was thinking the focals up front with the 8” woofers would give a more balanced/full sound than the 6.5 polks, And there is room in the doors for them, the rear is already moulded/cut for the 6.5 size and I could easily find space for the tweeters next to them, I was thinking more about ease of install as I have very little free time at the moment with work commitments! But your suggestions make a lot of sense for a better end result! It’s a quandry!

I will most likely have to have the rears faded right down most of the time for radio 4 if it’s just me up front, and crank it up for some BoneyM on the school run, the twins love a bit of daddy cool
 

A Brown

Member
As an update, I fitted the Mosconi pico2 amp in the dash and the 8” focals with the sound deadening, as a quick upgrade before following Jason’s advice above for stage 2 when time allows.

I have to say that the results really are impressive, for such a low cost and easy install I’m blown away by the sound quality and sound stage. I had no experience of the mini pico2 amp and definitely doubted it’s claimed output power. That said it really does have the RMS grunt to drive the front focals and I’m so impressed I’ve not really needed to add the remainder of the system yet. I would certainly recommend this as a low cost option and it took about 3 hours start to finish (with a few brew breaks).
 
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