Fuse for amp remote cable

Brindle

Brindle

Senior Member
VIP Member
T6 Guru
Like a complete chump, I managed to short out the remote cable from the head unit that switches on my amp (via a loom extension made by Absolut5 who advised there was no fuse in their loom so that rules that out). Any ideas where such a fuse may live before I open up the head unit???
 
Most REMOTE OUT are not fused and driven direct from the HU.

Last time I saw this it had blown the transistor output inside the HU.

Fingers crossed for easy fix.

Or a fused link.

Power cycle the HU and retest the HU output.

If it has a fuse it will be on the loom from HU to OEM connections.


@Absolut5 anything to add or any advice ?
 
Dellmassive said:
Most REMOTE OUT are not fused and driven direct from the HU.

Last time I saw this it had blown the transistor output inside the HU.

Fingers crossed for easy fix.

Or a fused link.

Power cycle the HU and retest the HU output.

If it has a fuse it will be on the loom from HU to OEM connections.


@Absolut5 anything to add or any advice ?
Click to expand...
Thanks @Dellmassive you are a legend once again. I’ll wait and see if there is any other input, but if I’ve blown a transistor, I’m not sure what I can do but find another way to feed power. I’m using the igniton feed as a temp solution but that’s not the long term answer.
 
ok, so the OEM radios do not have REMOTE OP,

its all done via a CAN BUS module,

so to get a REMOTE signal most people fit a CAN BUS adapter . .

like this one:

Adapter cable to convert Volkswagen Caddy 2015 onward and Transporter T6 vans with quadlock connectors to a standard ISO connector for fitting an aftermarket head unit.
The harness has a built in CANbus interface that provides a key present ignition power supply to the radio, installation is plug and play.

Gives reverse signal and speed pulse signal

1631890901520.png


1631890888420.png
 
any of those look familiar?

can up post some pics of your loom from radio to van?
 
also what amp etc?

few pics will help
 
Thanks @Dellmassive. It’s none of those, it’s simple a harness extension made up by @Absolut5 that gives a output for rca and an amp switch. Hopefully the pics below show it better. The amp is an Alpine RA-90, I also have a Phoenix gold PLD1 in there at the moment, neither of which will power up from the remote switch from the head unit as there is no signal.

D9727F75-AA60-46CE-8D41-9D80513152B4.jpeg

0D161CCF-A96A-45C6-93DF-DDBB084276A3.jpeg

E194CF29-217F-4762-99B0-E34A8E6720DA.jpeg

44B63525-DD4B-4A5C-820A-8AFC26940825.jpeg
 
gotcha . . .

that will be the one . .

that RCA box will most likley have a POS and NEG going to it . .

that unit will auto sense the music from the HI-Level and generate the +12v REMOTE signal.


can you peel off the TESSA tape and see.

it will have maybe greys and whites for the left/right speaker chanel . . . then POS/NEG . . . then, the REMOTE OP.

++++

1631893919042.png





+++++


u-buy.co.png
UK
Buy DS18 V2HL 2-Channel Line Out Converter, High-Level Speaker Signal to Low-Level RCA Adapter with Built-in Audio Sensing Technology; Produces Remote Trigger Output to Control



1631893798073.png
 
And where it get even stranger, is that with the head unit turned off there is a 3.7v feed from the remote lead. When the head unit is switched in (and there should be 12v) it drops to 2.7v
 
Skipton version . .


www.skiptoncarradio.com

VW T6 Preout Cable

This plug & play adaptor is built in house specifically to allow you to add an amplifier to your factory fitted T6 stereo simply plug it in and
www.skiptoncarradio.com www.skiptoncarradio.com



This plug & play adaptor is built in house specifically to allow you to add an amplifier to your factory fitted T6 stereo. simply plug it in and you have a pre out and an automatically generated 12v remote turn on wire.

We also do a version 2 of this interface which also allows rear speaker to be added to your factory stereo.

1631894408875.png
 
if the module has a good POS/NEG feed going to it . . . (test with multimeter)

then its most likely the unit has popped internally.

so will need replacing.
 
Dellmassive said:
if the module has a good POS/NEG feed going to it . . . (test with multimeter)

then its most likely the unit has popped internally.

so will need replacing.
Click to expand...
Awesome, I’m assuming you mean to check the black and yellow leads, in which case yes there is 12v. Looks like I new a new harness then!!

2B50EEE5-8DE4-49F6-A5DC-C5D353CE8473.jpeg

F8FAA6DD-2CD6-4A7E-90DF-065986B83AFC.jpeg
 
What’s throwing me is that the new units have 7 wires but the current in has 8-

White and grey speaker wires x4
Blue remote
Yellow +
Black GND
Brown G

??
 
Yeh...

I'd imagine the black and brown on yours are both GROUND.

Most are the 7wire type.

@Absolut5 may be able to sell you a direct replacement?

If not any of the others above can be cut and connected into your existing loom.

Or just replace the whole loom assembly with the hi low converter already installed.
 
Dellmassive said:
Yeh...

I'd imagine the black and brown on yours are both GROUND.

Most are the 7wire type.

@Absolut5 may be able to sell you a direct replacement?

If not any of the others above can be cut and connected into your existing loom.

Or just replace the whole loom assembly with the hi low converter already installed.
Click to expand...
Thanks, got one of the ones you suggested winging it’s way via Amazon tomorrow.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

A
Amp not working properly
Replies
13
Views
719
ALFIrE
A
V
‘Protect’ LED on Focal Amp Impulse 4.32
Replies
1
Views
359
Vinyl1210
V
G
10mm2 cable Fuse Box SH
Replies
8
Views
2K
Gary_M
G
A
Inverter avoidance?
Replies
1
Views
311
Salty Spuds
Salty Spuds
timthetinyhorse
Who can help me understand my 12v install
Replies
10
Views
1K
Deaky
Deaky
Back
Top