Fitting the Reimo multi-rail

Mud Digger

Retired Engineer
VIP Member
T6 Guru
hi just a few things i found fitting the L W B Multi- rail... after watching U tube i went for pre drilling the holes not self drilling screws and glad i did ... they were saying 5mm space above the edge i hit a shallow double skin on every hole. Had i gone 8 - 10 mm . the rail would sit nicer on the curve of the edging and missed the inner skin much better also the sliding door raises when fully open would give a bit better clearance but very happy with end result . want the canopy to cover the open sliding door when open when its raining . the gutter to stop drips in the opening. The screws would of cleared much better being being a tad higher. you get 5 silver self drilling and 11 black screws again with self drilling tips made them just that bit to long the inner skin is angled curved to the inside roof shape making this hard to drill through and not get drill bit creep and i snapped a couple of bits but not drilling would of bulged the top painted metal work up or stripped the screw out where it had bottomed out on the inner skin . you can see this in the Kiravans video but it is hidden under the rail
another Tip is use a nice drill and new drill bits no wobble on the chuck. mine has a bit of wear and holding in to drill the inner skin over sizes the outer hole for a looser screw tighten. easier to strip the thread out the screws are not long enough to put the threads threw both skins its just making a start on the screw tip to sit in.

Drilling into the Van paint work was a bit scary so check and re check and i checked again lol before you start drilling.... but remember this can be repaired if you ever removed the rail and if a screw strips out there's room in the rail for a bigger screw.. hope this helps someone..... cheers all have a super weekend i get to test it out next week whooop whooop Nick Muddigger
 
hi just a few things i found fitting the L W B Multi- rail... after watching U tube i went for pre drilling the holes not self drilling screws and glad i did ... they were saying 5mm space above the edge i hit a shallow double skin on every hole. Had i gone 8 - 10 mm . the rail would sit nicer on the curve of the edging and missed the inner skin much better also the sliding door raises when fully open would give a bit better clearance but very happy with end result . want the canopy to cover the open sliding door when open when its raining . the gutter to stop drips in the opening. The screws would of cleared much better being being a tad higher. you get 5 silver self drilling and 11 black screws again with self drilling tips made them just that bit to long the inner skin is angled curved to the inside roof shape making this hard to drill through and not get drill bit creep and i snapped a couple of bits but not drilling would of bulged the top painted metal work up or stripped the screw out where it had bottomed out on the inner skin . you can see this in the Kiravans video but it is hidden under the rail
another Tip is use a nice drill and new drill bits no wobble on the chuck. mine has a bit of wear and holding in to drill the inner skin over sizes the outer hole for a looser screw tighten. easier to strip the thread out the screws are not long enough to put the threads threw both skins its just making a start on the screw tip to sit in.

Drilling into the Van paint work was a bit scary so check and re check and i checked again lol before you start drilling.... but remember this can be repaired if you ever removed the rail and if a screw strips out there's room in the rail for a bigger screw.. hope this helps someone..... cheers all have a super weekend i get to test it out next week whooop whooop Nick Muddigger
Did you have any problems at the back of the vehicle getting it to sit flush? I have a rail already installed on the passenger side but at the tail it is about 4-5mm away from the bodywork which makes threading a kador strip in difficult. I am about to fit one to the driver's side myself as I am fed up of being dripped on when I get out. I don't want a similar problem on the driver's side and I would be interested in how you overcame this. I know there are two screw holes at each end to help pull it in but it hasn't worked on the side already fitted. I was wondering about shortening it by about 60mm so it finished before the curve in at the back. Would be interested in your thoughts and comments
 
@BigglesinaT6 i have a update to to add to my comments above........ the rear rubber needs a screw put through it the silkoflex has bonded nicely to the van but the rubber endcap keeps falling off. i cleaned the rubber and degreased it
working from middle out screwing the rail in mine arrived quit well formed to the shape of van but the ends do need a lot of push to get them to touch close to the van. when you have drilled your holes it's IMPORTANT to check the depth. that the cutter in the self drilling screws does they provide is not hitting the curved inner panel and it easily snaps your drill bit hitting the curve. you cant Centre punch the inner curved panel

it puts the last screw holes under a lot of tension is why you need a nice clean hole and not hit the curved inner panel less you drill through it use a new drill bit and don't use a wobbly chuck mount the rail with 10 mm up from the edge of the roof panel you might clear the curve with the long self drilling screws

im So glad i pre - drilled and didn't just use these self driiller's they would of stripped out the outer hole when drilling through the inner panels.
remember if it all goes wrong like any self DIY jobs its totally repairable just an inconvenience
i used plenty of silkaflex just takes longer cleaning off the surplus
i warmed the rubber nose cone to bend round to the screen channel or it will drip down the side windows
remember to set that as your starting point so it reaches you don't want it going uphill hope that helps you ...

and the i learned the Reimo does help drips but now the Kader strip drips don't use a 3 section drive away figure of 8 that gaps to ........... whos idea was that ... needs a thump .. some flippin idiot... the water trapped on the Kador it pours in the joints

And who would sell a drive away awning with out this driver away kit ... you need to find that out once you open you awning that its not in the kit then you have it urgently delivered to the site and they give you a $"£^"£*&% 3 piece plastic figure of 8 thx Cayman you really gave it some thought..

i think roof rail channel fixing would be much better and much cheaper and concealed would also stop the drips running off the roof onto the step

regards Nick
 
Hi mate.
I just wondered about the distance either end the rail has to get pulled up ? My LWB rails are about 1 and 1/2 inches off the van at each end when the middle is touching.
Before I fit it I wondered if this was correct ?
 
Just to double check before I start work -
The Reimo Multirails I have are curved at the front and back of the van to follow the contour of the windows. When offered up the the van they are straight and will need pushing down onto the van and screwing and gluing.
Are the rails meant to be straight and need pushing down onto the van to fit ?
LWB t6.
Thanks.
 
They are produced straight, screwing them down creates the form. There are many videos on YouTube.
 
fair enough. Any other tips from experienced fitters ?
Once it’s on, I’d put a very thin bead of black sealant along the top of the rail to seal it to the van. Also seal around the holes that you drill for the self tappers.
 
Good advice above, as the same as what we discussed in the PM you sent me asking for advice.
 
Bottled it mate. No one to help left me struggling and I decided against it. I’m pretty gutted tbh as a few years back I fitted an SCA roof to my old van and it held up for 8 years till I sold it. But this van is worth £40k and it’s a different ball game now.
 
That’s a bugger, when you do get it on you will be so pleased. Might be someone on here who could fit it. ?
 
Back
Top