Diesel heater feed hose question

[WoodthorpeT6]

Hi all,

Just about to install a 2kw mk Airo external diesel heater to our t6. Great heaters, had one on our previous T5.

Question is regarding the pipe/hose used to go from the fuel tank to the pump and onto the heater itself.

Why does the kit have short (6cm ish long) sections of 4.5mm ID hose at the joints with plastic pipe then pushed and jubilee clamped into that? Could I not just buy a couple of meters of 4.5mm ID diesel rated hose and do away with the plastic pipe altogether, thus eliminateing several joints (potential leak points)

There must be a reason that they don't supply it like this? Does fuel pipe perish quicker than the plastic pipe supplied?

Thanks

 

[oldiebut goodie]

DO NOT USE 4/4.5mm THROUGHOUT. The pumps are designed to use 1.5/2mm inner diameter fuel pipe. You will likely run into fuel delivery/airlock problems if you try to alter the design of the system. The rubber connectors are solely to make the join between two items enabling a close butt joint.
Also - do not use Jubilee clips, use the correct hose clips.

 

[WoodthorpeT6]

Thanks for that. I see now, thought there must be a reason! I'll definitely stick with the supplied kit.

Jubilee is just a brand name, kit comes with proper hose clamps made by jubilee

Thanks again.

 

[Niknak]

@oldiebut goodie means not screw type clips you should use clip together fuel pipe clips that are designed for the diameter pipes your using
Personally hate jubilee type clips they don’t equally clamp and more likely to crush

 

[WoodthorpeT6]

To be clear Jubilee is just a manufacturer, linked below are these clamps that come with the heater kit, used them loads in the past, never had an issue with them, rebuilt engines and all sorts with them, but that wasn't my question.
I just wondered if plastic tube could be replaced with hose, the answer is no due to the increased bore possibly affecting the pumps performance, thank you for the advice

Need to secure a small hose? Jubilee® has just the clip - Jubilee Clips

Jubilee® Clips, manufacturer of the eponymous world famous Original hose clamp, offers a range of hose clamps much wider than just the worm drive hose clips it is known for. The Original Jubilee® worm drive hose clip’s smallest size has an adjustment range of 9.5 to 12mm. Nevertheless, even for...

www.jubileeclips.co.uk

 

[Niknak]

Thanks for clearing it up always wondered growing up walking past the jubilee clip factory what they made, they are probably great on lawn mowers or Austin allegros but these are proper fuel clips

 

[Grim Reaper]

I bought several meters of tygon fuel tubing when I fitted mine, 3.2mm ID if I remember correctly, continuous pieces between tank, filter, pump and heater, I've had no issues with fuel delivery and my tank is right at the back left hand corner feeding to the heater underneath the van driver's seat.

 

[oldiebut goodie]

Why?

 

[Grim Reaper]

Proper fuel hose that won't perish, no little bits of joining hose everywhere and I have tested it and confirmed that air bubbles move down it just fine (even downhill)

 

[oldiebut goodie]

I use proper R14 fuel hose for the joining rubbers - the rubber is not in contact with the fuel when the connection is made correctly so no worries there. I have taken apart installations that have been in place for over 30 years and have never seen any deterioration of the rubbers even with the lower grade grade used then on modern fuels.
I have had several customers who have fitted heaters with large bore hose like that rather than what is supplied who have had problems with heat output which I couldn't get to the bottom of until the fuel line was queried. The manufacturers do know best! No point introducing problems from the start.

 

[Cooper]

Sorry to hijack this post but..... I’m also looking at fitting a diesel heater and having watched the 5 million instals on YouTube, I’m just wondering if it’s possible to “T” into an existing fuel line somewhere rather than having the trouble (and it always seems to look like trouble!) of dropping the tank out and drilling a new hole into the sender thingy?

Disclaimer: My mechanical knowledge of engines extends no further than turning the key and driving away and I have been know to try to poor oil down the dipstick as I thought if I took the oil cap off it would all shoot out To this end, please be gentle when berating me for the above stupid idea!

 

[oldiebut goodie]

Not possible unless factory water heater already installed.

https://www.t6forum.com/threads/which-night-heater.18719/

Stampie, I'm a Webasto dealer, the proper T5/6 Webasto kit comes with a fuel stand pipe and instructions on how to fit it into the existing sender unit so you don't need to drill the tank, you do have to drop the tank down but the instructions cover this too.

But if you have a water heater installed from the factory you can tee into the existing fuel line before the existing fuel pump.

The Air Top 2000STC comes with a 3 year warranty if supplied and installed by a dealer. I'm putting one in my own T6 when I get time and always have one in stock, popular upgrade.

 

[Cooper]

Ahhh. Ok. Thanks for the info! That’s that decided then - tank shall be dropped.

 

[saintclarkey1]

I've got a slightly different question on the MV airo if anyone can help. I've bought the entire plug and play kit that I'm going to mount externally under the driver's seat in the normal position on a hanging bracket. Plan was to run the air inlet ducting through the driver's step and the outlet into the rear behind the driver's seat (again a fairly standard set-up). When I spoke to a local converter they suggested as I have the remote temperature sensor (to install inside the van at shoulder height) I don't need to run the intake duct into the driver's step. Has anyone else heard of this? If I can get away with just drilling one 70mm hole into the van for the outlet only that would be epic.

 

[boxelder]

I've got a slightly different question on the MV airo if anyone can help. I've bought the entire plug and play kit that I'm going to mount externally under the driver's seat in the normal position on a hanging bracket. Plan was to run the air inlet ducting through the driver's step and the outlet into the rear behind the driver's seat (again a fairly standard set-up). When I spoke to a local converter they suggested as I have the remote temperature sensor (to install inside the van at shoulder height) I don't need to run the intake duct into the driver's step. Has anyone else heard of this? If I can get away with just drilling one 70mm hole into the van for the outlet only that would be epic.

But if the air intake is outside the van, you'll be drawing unheated air into the heater, possibly with exhaust fumes, as any breeze could take those in any direction. On a still day, exhaust fumes are likely to gather under the van - where your air intake would be. People claim that drawing fresh air from outside the van reduces moisture and condensation in the van, but that's never been explained satisfactorily.

 

[saintclarkey1]

But if the air intake is outside the van, you'll be drawing unheated air into the heater, possibly with exhaust fumes, as any breeze could take those in any direction. On a still day, exhaust fumes are likely to gather under the van - where your air intake would be. People claim that drawing fresh air from outside the van reduces moisture and condensation in the van, but that's never been explained satisfactorily.

This was my concerns as well hence why I was looking for some additional confirmation on here. The converter I spoke to said he'd spoken directly to his diesel heater supplier who said to do it this way and he's since fitted hundreds in this manner...I guess there's no harm in putting the step ducting in just to be on the safe side.

 

[oldiebut goodie]

Crazy idea heating air from the exterior. Imagine that you are sitting in your van and it is -15 degrees outside underneath the van and you have to continuously raise the temp of that air to something more bearable for you to sit in, as opposed to continuously incrementing the temp of the warmed air. I know that I would never fit one like that and cannot envisage any time that it would be advantageous in a van. Your heater would be running flat out all the time trying to effect climate change all on its own.

 

[saintclarkey1]

Crazy idea heating air from the exterior. Imagine that you are sitting in your van and it is -15 degrees outside underneath the van and you have to continuously raise the temp of that air to something more bearable for you to sit in, as opposed to continuously incrementing the temp of the warmed air. I know that I would never fit one like that and cannot envisage any time that it would be advantageous in a van. Your heater would be running flat out all the time trying to effect climate change all on its own.

Cheers for the comments guys, glad I checked in here first

 

[AussieMick]

Completely agree with oldiebut goodie, bad idea and wrong way to fit one. Air inlet should be inside the van , drivers step is usual position.

 

[DXX]

But if the air intake is outside the van, you'll be drawing unheated air into the heater, possibly with exhaust fumes, as any breeze could take those in any direction. On a still day, exhaust fumes are likely to gather under the van - where your air intake would be. People claim that drawing fresh air from outside the van reduces moisture and condensation in the van, but that's never been explained satisfactorily.

For air to enter the van air has to leave the van, if the warm air being exhausted is laden with moisture from burning gas hob / cooking / exhaled breath then it should keep the van drier.
That said there is no way I would run a heater inlet from outside, it just isn’t efficient.
It is important to ventilate a van whether heated or not as the moisture will build up and condense throughout the lining, bedding etc, one thing worse than a cold van is a cold damp van.
Crack the cab windows open and sleep well.
Before anybody asks, no a rogue traveller won’t inject gas into the van rendering you helpless before breaking in and stealing your prize possessions.