Deaky’s Kombi to Camper journey

Deaky said:
Thanks for the heads up @t0mb0 Looks like more money to spend :cry:
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@Deaky, just check before spending, you are trickle charging an AGM starter battery so I don't think you need the Ablemail. You would need to check with the instructions of your trickle charger, but I believe the type of battery you are drawing current is irrelevant.
 
Skyliner33 said:
@Deaky, just check before spending, you are trickle charging an AGM starter battery so I don't think you need the Ablemail. You would need to check with the instructions of your trickle charger, but I believe the type of battery you are drawing current is irrelevant.
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No, the instructions specifically state it's not suitable for lithium leisure with lead starters. I think the issue is that it's a basic device that simply works off the voltage difference between the two batteries and lithium has higher voltage over a very wide range of SoC.
 
t0mb0 said:
No, the instructions specifically state it's not suitable for lithium leisure with lead starters. I think the issue is that it's a basic device that simply works off the voltage difference between the two batteries and lithium has higher voltage over a very wide range of SoC.
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That will teach me to post without reading the instructions lol. :thumbsup:
 
t0mb0 said:
No, the instructions specifically state it's not suitable for lithium leisure with lead starters. I think the issue is that it's a basic device that simply works off the voltage difference between the two batteries and lithium has higher voltage over a very wide range of SoC.
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Whilst this is true, the charger in my set up is connected to the load output of my MPPT charger. This is set to be active when the leisure battery voltage is over a set amount and turn off when under, perhaps being able to control the voltages when the trickle charger is active will prevent overcharging the starter. Its a bit confusing because the Absorption voltage and Float voltage of Lithium is lower than AGM
 
@Deaky

can you add your new setup to the SEATBASE thread please?



www.t6forum.com

Seat Base Electric + EHU + Solar Install + Charger + DC-DC -- How We Done it --

Seat Base Electric + EHU + Solar Install + Charger + DC-DC -- How We Done it -- id like to build a thread showing what's possible as regards to seat base builds. lets post a collection of our electrical installs, be it in the seat base or rear conversion. just EHU or SCR/VSR, charger, DC-DC...
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Deaky said:
I just spliced a cable to that so the smart shunt could monitor the starter battery voltage.
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What’s the best way to do this for a professional (safe) installation?

I just fitted my Smart Shunt and I’d love to also monitor the starter battery.
 
RunDSG said:
What’s the best way to do this for a professional (safe) installation?

I just fitted my Smart Shunt and I’d love to also monitor the starter battery.
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Just connect a wire from the starter battery input on your DC-DC charger to the AUX port on the smart shunt. Make sure it’s fused close to the charger
 
Deaky said:
Just connect a wire from the starter battery input on your DC-DC charger to the AUX port on the smart shunt. Make sure it’s fused close to the charger
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Nice one. That sounds far too easy. Any reason why I shouldn’t just use the positive cable included with the victron smart shunt? Has a fuse, I think closer to the eyelet end.
 
RunDSG said:
Nice one. That sounds far too easy. Any reason why I shouldn’t just use the positive cable included with the victron smart shunt? Has a fuse, I think closer to the eyelet end.
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Because that +ve should be your leisure battery :)
 
What Deaky is saying is, you can use the supplied red 1A fused cable supplied for the v1 and V2 input.

But for the starter feed, cut the ring terminal off and connect it to the starter battery input on your DC-DC charger.

..
I have the temperature sensors on my shunts so loose the ability to monitor Both batterys.
 
congratulations on installing an even more powerful bomb under your seat!! true seat-ejector power. :D haha im kidding, looks brilliant mate! I take it, most of the new lithium batteries won't fit under the seats anymore? hence going for the choice you have..
 
Deaky said:
Because that +ve should be your leisure battery :)
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Yes, I’m with you on that, haha. I’m thinking of the second cable that comes with the smart shunt.

So, connect to the DC-DC charger….

I have the CTEK250SE. Connect positive wire from “A” (alternator) terminal to the smart shunt?

Just want to confirm this will indicate the voltage of starter batter, even though it’s labelled alternator.

D8BE8B6C-0BD9-4283-BE04-563DD5DCA84C.jpeg
 
RunDSG said:
Yes, I’m with you on that, haha. I’m thinking of the second cable that comes with the smart shunt.

So, connect to the DC-DC charger….

I have the CTEK250SE. Connect positive wire from “A” (alternator) terminal to the smart shunt?

Just want to confirm this will indicate the voltage of starter batter, even though it’s labelled alternator.

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Ok. Done! Super easy way to get the starter battery voltage.

I guess I can disconnect my two BM2 Bluetooth monitors now…

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Deaky said:
A little more work on the hookup today. I’ve sent the original charger back. It was a 30a 3 output Victron charger. My original idea was to use it to charge my leisure battery and should I require it the starter battery too. I assumed that I’d be able to control the outputs using the Victron app. You can’t. Also, any batteries connected to it have to be the same type, you can’t charge an AGM starter and a lithium leisure battery. So I’ve brought 2 separate chargers a 4a and 15a Victron bluesmart IP65.

These have a much higher IP rating so I’m happy to fit these under the bonnet.

The 4 amp is for the starter, it’s smaller than the 15a and tucks nicely behind the battery.

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I’ve fitted the leisure battery charger under the scuttle panel, there is loads of room under there and because the charger is IP65 rated, it doesn’t matter if it gets wet.

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There is an earth point under the scuttle so I’ve connected the -ve outputs of both chargers to this and also added an earth bond from the consumer unit.

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Because I now have two chargers I’ve added another breaker so I can switch them on independently.

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I’ve drilled another hole into the van as the plenum grommet is full with the drain from the Hilo. The +ve for the leisure charger is fed through to the inside, ready for me to continue tomorrow..

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Hi Deaky,
Would this type of consumer unit set up be suitable for running two individual 240v sockets?

I presume you wire the input cable to both breakers and then each breaker looks after one item?

One socket would just be for the leisure battery charger, the other for small electrical items/phone chargers etc

I bougt one of the pre made 240v kits and the size of it and quality of the included equipment/fixings is putting me right off.
 
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