Under Engine Cover Protection?
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Next time you lie under your van, could you please check if oil sump of yours has plastic foam insulation over it, or is just plain pan exposed to air flow. Mine (a panel van) came with insulation and bottom cover from the factory (nothing I could choose or reject). The reason why noticed was because we had some really cold weather up here, and I was wondering how the engine oil still be +105..+110C when it is -30C outside, and I'm driving 100 km/h. I would appreciate if you could share also exact engine code of yours (something like CAAC, CXGA, CXGB, CXHA, CXFA, CXEB,...found on the sticker in your service booklet and/or by hood opener/OBD connector below dash, by your right knee (RHD vehicle)).
Yes, most likely another privilege for Nordic countries. But, I’m not totally convinced by the statement of EU6-engines running cooler
. At least from point of view of oil, coolant and engine block temperatures they are still exactly the same. Actually oil, obviously thanks to insulation, reaches steady 100..110C very quickly (faster than EU5), so our EU6's is definitely not water friendly for mayo buildup. Cooler exhaust gases in EU6, I’ll buy that
. And, from the point of view engine friction management, they run with less internal friction than old ones, so less energy/waste heat to keep cabin warm up here.During cold season we have reached up here a kind of interesting level of engine heat management. I think all our T6's have a separate heater burning diesel in separate furnace to keep engine's coolant hot enough for engine to meet EU6 regulations, and the cabin, too. Most likely the exhaust products of the furnace are excluded from the spec
. Certainly it's very comfortable to preheat engine and cabin with that when it is -20C 
or so.Well, I bought a skid plate as suggested by Willoughby, above. It was about £140 inc postage. It is strong sheet and will certainly support any bash. It fit like a treat. I cut a slot, a sort of trapeezium shape for oil plug access (the oil comes out sideways, so needs a slot). I'd thought I would need to put a plate over this access hole, but no need at all as sheet is so strong and there is some clearance. However, I will confess I took my measurements looking up, then turned around onto my knees and then marked the memorized measurements onto the plate which I had laid beneath the engine and cut it out and then began to bolt it on and noticed that the slot was on the wrong side. Yes, a mistake, but to be fair on myself it could easily happen to anyone, which is why I mention it here. So I took it off again and cut another slot, began bolting it on and noticed it wasn't perfectly under the plug, but it will do, but I mention it so that anyone fitting a plate this way with a cut out oil plug access hole will take great care to get it right; double and triple check.
Another thing worth mentioning is that I tried a new system to raise the front end. I don't really like the metal ramps as a bit too flimsy and unstable for me, so this time I used a stack of garden paving slabs laid stepped, and a brick so i don't over shoot. I parked the van on an incline facing down hill, put the slabs infront of the front tyres and then simply drove up them. It was perfect, easy and very sound and stable. So when the front end was thus raised the van was thus level, and because of the incline there was more room heightwise for me to work under the engine. This way is a very good system.
Another thing worth mentioning is that I tried a new system to raise the front end. I don't really like the metal ramps as a bit too flimsy and unstable for me, so this time I used a stack of garden paving slabs laid stepped, and a brick so i don't over shoot. I parked the van on an incline facing down hill, put the slabs infront of the front tyres and then simply drove up them. It was perfect, easy and very sound and stable. So when the front end was thus raised the van was thus level, and because of the incline there was more room heightwise for me to work under the engine. This way is a very good system.
Hope nobody minds if I resurrect this thread. Simple question - will a T5 under engine cover fit a T6 (65 plate)? I can see plenty under trays for T5's online but next to nil T6's. I've seen conflicting reports, one saying the T5 tray will fit a T6, another saying the bumper on the T5/T6 are different so T5 tray won't fit the T6. I'd like to find out before I get back to local dealers (who aren't keen on responding to the same question via email).
Winter's a coming and I don't like the look of the road below when I stare down through the engine compartment.
Winter's a coming and I don't like the look of the road below when I stare down through the engine compartment.
not something that crossed my mind to look if I had one. I will look in morning, but if not got one. I will be ordering one asap now weather is about to change for the worse lol
Just to update : I bought a T5 tray off a 'well known auctioneer site', and it fits my T6 with no issues. The description referred to the part number
7E0805685A although it isn't OEM and there is no layer of soundproofing material fixed on the tray. Cost just under £60.
7E0805685A although it isn't OEM and there is no layer of soundproofing material fixed on the tray. Cost just under £60.
Would this fit my t6 euro 6 150 highline
Thanks
Thanks
Doug
Member
Hi , fitted a T5 cover to my 140 T6, no problem, also had it serviced by VW no mention of extra cost due to having to remove the cover.
Not sure if this was because the van came with service plan (two "free" services)
I was under the impression that the highline came with an undertray as standard ?
Not sure if this was because the van came with service plan (two "free" services)
I was under the impression that the highline came with an undertray as standard ?
I'm lead to believe that panel vans don't have a tray and kombi vans do.
My highline PV didnt have an undertray.
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