260 Ah of Valence LiFePO4 install under seats

[Deaks]

This week, I bought 2x 130Ah Valence Lithium Iron phosphate batteries, and some (but not all) of the Victron kit I need.
I've also spent loads on tools ( I love buying tools), the hydraulic crimp tool is great!!

Please see the diagram below, I think this is pretty much as it should be, and I think I can get the kit to fit under each seat as per diagram.
The things I am not sure on and would appriciate some guidance are:-

The gauge of cable, I was planning on using awg6 (16mm2) for all of it, but should I use a heavier cable for the links between the batteries, and should the link on the + be fused, and if so, should it be fused both ends?
If it needs to be fused, what size fuses? I'm a bit confused on the 2x 130ah = 260Ah total, I know this does not mean that the full 260 amps could all come out of the batteries at once due to the BMS protection circuits inside, but I think the peak max discharge per battery is 80 amps, so in theory these cables may need to handle 160 amps?? (or am I wrong?).

What size victron battery protect would I need?
Are 40 amp fuses correct for the in and out + cables for the Victron Orion DC-DC 12-12-30
What amp rating bus bars would I need?
What size fuse and cable for the main feed from the bus bars to the leisure fuse box?
Do I need to fuse the output from the 30a 240v Victron Smart Charger (via EHU), it has an in-built 40 amp fuse in the unit?
Have I missed anything?

I'll probably add 300 watts of solar and Victron MPTT controller when the pop top roof has been installed (sometime in the future), would this just connect into the + and - bus bars?

Thanks in advance

Deaks

 

[Dellmassive]

BMV712 shunt is in the wrong place.

it should be the only thing connected to the battery NEGs on one side and body ground the other side,

ALL other NEGs to body ground.




schematics below.

BMV-712 Smart - Victron Energy

Communicate wirelessly between products and simplify system installation and enhance performance using the BMV-712 Smart. Find a dealer now.

www.victronenergy.com

https://www.victronenergy.com/upload/documents/VE-direct-drawing-with-Phoenix-charger-12-50-1-inverter-375W-Li-Batt-mini-BMS-MPPT-100-30-Orion-Tr-smart.pdf

.

 

[Deaks]

Thanks Dell

I have ammended the drawing, please could you take a look?
Regarding the cable lengths, I can make the paralell links the same length, but the + out and - out from the battery pack will be different, will this be a problem?

I would really appriciate your advise on the cable guage and fuse ratings when you have a minute if possible.

PS I have the Victron diag software working with my 'Dellmassive' USB adaper cable. One battery has 76 charge cycles and the other 87, so the baatteries have been barely used.
Really looking forward to getting it all installed now

Deaks

 

[Dellmassive]

the shunt position looks good.

you need extra fuses right next to the battery + terminal on every out going cable.

so on plan battery A to Dis block needs fusing.

battery A to B need fusing . . . both ends.

fusing and cable sizes depends on what loads you are looking to pull.

what size victron smart charger?

what size victron dc-dc?

planing on inverter?

planing on solar?


what loads you planing on pulling from the "fusebox"? . . lights?, fridge?, etc etc etc




@travelvolts will be able to supply you with the cable, terminals and fuses etc.

RECOMMENDED INVERTER CABLE AND BREAKER OR FUSE SIZES

RECOMMENDED INVERTER CABLE AND BREAKER OR FUSE SIZES

www.t6forum.com

Diagrams, Schematics & Wires -- How I Done It --

Diagrams, Schematics & Wires -- How I Done It -- ************************************************** Dellmassive`s -- "how I Done It" -- Thread ************************************************** Kit List And Stuff -- How I Done It & What I Use --...

www.t6forum.com

have a look at this for reference . . .

https://www.victronenergy.com/upload/documents/VE-direct-drawing-with-Phoenix-charger-12-50-1-inverter-375W-Li-Batt-mini-BMS-MPPT-100-30-Orion-Tr-smart.pdf

 

[Deaks]

the shunt position looks good.

you need extra fuses right next to the battery + terminal on every out going cable.

so on plan battery A to Dis block needs fusing.

battery A to B need fusing . . . both ends.

fusing and cable sizes depends on what loads you are looking to pull.

what size victron smart charger?

what size victron dc-dc?

planing on inverter?

planing on solar?


what loads you planing on pulling from the "fusebox"? . . lights?, fridge?, etc etc etc




@travelvolts will be able to supply you with the cable, terminals and fuses etc.

RECOMMENDED INVERTER CABLE AND BREAKER OR FUSE SIZES

RECOMMENDED INVERTER CABLE AND BREAKER OR FUSE SIZES

www.t6forum.com

Diagrams, Schematics & Wires -- How I Done It --

Diagrams, Schematics & Wires -- How I Done It -- ************************************************** Dellmassive`s -- "how I Done It" -- Thread ************************************************** Kit List And Stuff -- How I Done It & What I Use --...

www.t6forum.com

have a look at this for reference . . .

https://www.victronenergy.com/upload/documents/VE-direct-drawing-with-Phoenix-charger-12-50-1-inverter-375W-Li-Batt-mini-BMS-MPPT-100-30-Orion-Tr-smart.pdf

View attachment 70920

Thank you......

I’ll amend the drawing for the fuses etc.

With regard to loads, nothing huge, just a fridge, water pump, diesel heater, quite a lot of lights eventually (LED though), USB charging for phones and ipad, Bose mini speaker, WiFi router, etc.
No plans for an inverter really, pretty much everything can run on 12v, gas or diesel.
Mrs Deaks is not worried about hair dryers and straighteners so not much need for 240v, although I will put a few 240v sockets in for when we are able to use EHU.

I wanted the power to last long enough for my annual IOM TT trip (if it ever happens again) which is usually 10 - 12 days duration with no hook up.
I can start the van or do a few supermarket runs in that time but the journeys are short, so not much input from the dc-dc.

The Victron smart charger is the ip22 30 amp single output one.
The dc - dc will be the Victron Orion 12-12-30

I will be adding solar eventually, and will put 300 - 400 watts on the pop top roof when it’s fitted, probably two panels in series using a Victron 100-50 MPTT controller. I saw some panels on wish.com that they say are 300 watt each, but they seem far too small for that rating.

600W 2*300W ETFE Black Backplane High Efficiency 25%+ Flexible Solar Panel Mono Solar Battery Charger with 12V/24V Controller for Car Yacht Battery Boat RV | Wish

Buy 600W 2*300W ETFE Black Backplane High Efficiency 25%+ Flexible Solar Panel Mono Solar Battery Charger with 12V/24V Controller for Car Yacht Battery Boat RV at Wish - Shopping Made Fun

www.wish.com

I can’t see the pull ever being close to 50 amps. So does that mean that the Victron Smart battery protect could be either the 65 or 100 amp version?

The batteries are 130 ah with a peak max discharge of 80 amps, so do the link cables need to be something like 4awg (25 mm2) with 100 or 150 amp fuses?
Is just the + link that will need fuses, I did read something about fusing the - too, but I was lost at that point!

I have found that the midi fuse holders do not take 16mm2 crimp fittings very well, I may need to use different ones, possibly the mega ones instead.

Sorry for so many questions, 12volts is a learning process for me, video, audio and networks are a doddle compared to this!!

TIA

Deaks

 

[Dellmassive]

Dont worry about fusing negatives.

Battery protect 65A is ok if no loads bigger than 50A..... if more the 50A combined move to 100A unit to stop heating of a 65A one.

30A ehu and 30A will need beefy cables and midi fuses..

Above 50A continuous I'd move to mega fuses as midi ones will get hot.

Make the main battery cables and interlinks as large as possible to reduce volt drop...

 

[dav1d]

I’ve used a Victron Orion 30A DC-DC and a Smart Battery Protect 65A, with these fused with 30A midi link fuses. Have used 16mm2 cable for the high current supplies between these and the battery, the 16mm2 ring terminals just fit in these fuse holders with a tiny bit of trimming of the plastic:

Midi/Strip Link Fuse Holder

Single midi/strip link fuse holder with protective cover. Fuse & cable are secured via 2 x M5 studs. Cable size for this holder is 16mm² max.

www.12voltplanet.co.uk

I bought a box of ring terminals:

120 Piece Copper Tube Terminal Assortment Kit (6 - 25mm² Cable)

Assortment kit containing 120 pieces of the most commonly used smaller copper tube terminals in a handy storage box. Perfect for the garage or workshop.

www.12voltplanet.co.uk

I fused the output of the battery to 30A for now and used the 65A battery protect as I can’t imagine I’ll ever need more than that.

Be aware the Orion DC-DC seems to get really hot, I’ve decided I need to redo the electrics under the passenger seat as everything is all a bit too close. There are some posts on the Victron community forum about the heat as well. Also, 16mm2 cable is a tight fit in the Orion terminals, I had to trim a few strands of copper, but good for reducing voltage drop over the cable lengths.

 

[dav1d]

CORRECTION: van battery to DCDC and DCDC to leisure battery were fused at 60A, as close to each battery as possible (fusing a 30A charger with a 30A fuse wouldn’t be sensible...). Leisure battery output was fused at 30A.