2016 180 Bi turbo CFCA engine failure is the EGR valve corrosion the cause of the scored and worn out bores

Hi Loz, thank you for that. I've decided to have the engine rebuilt. My indi gave me a price for the engine to be removed and all ancillaries taken off and the put back on and engine put back in. A company near whare I live will rebuild the engine, just waiting for a price, they've got an excellent reputation as my indie sends everything there. I'm also going to ask them to, take pictures of the engine damage and wear as they dismantle it, as I'm still going to fight my case, but as this could take some time at least I have peace of mind nowing it's okay. I'll also have the emulating kit and blanking plates as well. Will I need to fit the new Egr cooler, or can I use the old one the the above kit.

Regards Mark
Hi Mark
I would definitely fit the new EGR valve you have and blank it off during the engine rebuild and fit the emulator as you will need to cut the old cooler open to provide evidence of what has led to the damage in the first place. I would also look at recovering your costs in the small claims court when you have gathered all the evidence.
 
I have a 180ps with a Rev D EGR, I don’t have any noticable oil consumption, DPF soot levels are very low and no noticeable reduction in power.
I have been monitoring with oil analysis and I took the decision to install a Tafmet kit. No issues, recommended to anybody with a 180ps.
Was this relatively easy to install? I am tempted, 70k on my CFCA, so am probably on borrowed time
 
Was this relatively easy to install? I am tempted, 70k on my CFCA, so am probably on borrowed time
Yes....3 electrical plugs and a set of long reach torx bits will help fit. A bit fiddle but nothing to hard. I installd a tafmet no issues hopefully protect the biturbo 180 engine
 
Was this relatively easy to install? I am tempted, 70k on my CFCA, so am probably on borrowed time
30 min max, one awkward screw on an EGR pipe otherwise 20 min.
Also I’d advise buying one of these to fill the empty socket on the EGR valve, tape the tails into the loom.
 
30 min max, one awkward screw on an EGR pipe otherwise 20 min.
Also I’d advise buying one of these to fill the empty socket on the EGR valve, tape the tails into the loom.
I had a lot of trouble fitting the blanking plate on the left hand pipe, the one with the awkward to access screw. There is little to no give in the pipe and I really struggled to open up a gap large enough between the pipe and the EGR cooler to fit the plate. Did you experience the same problem? Maybe I missed loosening something somewhere
 
I had a lot of trouble fitting the blanking plate on the left hand pipe, the one with the awkward to access screw. There is little to no give in the pipe and I really struggled to open up a gap large enough between the pipe and the EGR cooler to fit the plate. Did you experience the same problem? Maybe I missed loosening something somewhere
Loosen the top flange as well.
 
Just over 1 year since my van went into limp mode and warning lights lit up the dash like a Christmas tree, my precious 2015 T6 Multivan is back in my driveway. I too have been through this corroded EGR Cooler scandal. How this never came back to bite VW is the greatest mystery here. There should have been a recall when this issue came to light. My van was sold by a poor unsuspecting used car dealer. He has had to foot the bill for my engine recondition and kindly loaned me an alternative vehicle for these past 12 months. My mechanic re-fitted the engine and blanked off the EGR pipes when it returned from the re-conditioners. He has deleted the EGR function using VCDS or similar and it seems to be running well. I feel for anyone who is only at the beginning of this journey and only hope that you are either cashed up, or supported by the person you purchased it from.

OurVan.jpg
 
Just over 1 year since my van went into limp mode and warning lights lit up the dash like a Christmas tree, my precious 2015 T6 Multivan is back in my driveway. I too have been through this corroded EGR Cooler scandal. How this never came back to bite VW is the greatest mystery here. There should have been a recall when this issue came to light. My van was sold by a poor unsuspecting used car dealer. He has had to foot the bill for my engine recondition and kindly loaned me an alternative vehicle for these past 12 months. My mechanic re-fitted the engine and blanked off the EGR pipes when it returned from the re-conditioners. He has deleted the EGR function using VCDS or similar and it seems to be running well. I feel for anyone who is only at the beginning of this journey and only hope that you are either cashed up, or supported by the person you purchased it from.

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Is your engine the CFCA Bi-Turbo? I assumed the T6 all had the 'D' prefixed EGR Cooler that was reported not to give these issues, I'm curious to see if that is the case. It was one of the reasons it took me so long to buy my Caravelle as I was hunting out a single turbo. Glad you have yours sorted, great colour too! Mine is also Mojave.
 
Hi Dan. Yes my engine is a CFCA Bi-Turbo. Heres a shot of my EGR Cooler showing the suffix. Also a photo down the bore of cylinder number 3. If the van wasn't so damn good looking and suitable for my work and family, I would have just got the dealer to take it back. Nothing else on the road compares really. (The new Multivans T7's don't have the same appeal....)

EGR.jpg

Cyl3.jpg
 
Hi Dan. Yes my engine is a CFCA Bi-Turbo. Heres a shot of my EGR Cooler showing the suffix. Also a photo down the bore of cylinder number 3. If the van wasn't so damn good looking and suitable for my work and family, I would have just got the dealer to take it back. Nothing else on the road compares really. (The new Multivans T7's don't have the same appeal....)

View attachment 186462

View attachment 186463
Ah so thats the C revision. Glad you have it sorted anyway. They are a great van to drive and so practical, compared to my old XC90 its very 'car like' given its size.
 
Hi all
Just stripped down and rebuilt the engine on a 2016 T6 180 bi-turbo CFCA engine after it failed on the A557 heading for Widnes originally had the van recovered to VW van center Liverpool for repair as I thought it was just a failed injector.
After a couple of weeks, they said it had no compression on the number 4 cylinder and the heater plug tip had snapped off on the No 4 heater plug so gave them the go-ahead to remove the Cylinder head to diagnose the problem.
I was told the engine had been hydraulicked and no 4 cylinder was damaged so needed replacing at a cost of £ 12,000 I asked what the compression readings were for the other 3 cylinders and was shocked at how low they were this sent alarm bells ringing and I wanted to find out why the other 3 cylinders were so low given the vehicle had only covered 44,000 miles and had been serviced regularly.
So I collected the vehicle and started the process to find the reason for such an early failure as I am used to diesel engines doing 200,000 plus before needing major work or rebuild I do not have any ramps so set the van up on my trailer so I could remove the engine. Before starting the diagnostics and removal of the engine I got myself the workshop manual and VCDS and read the manual and learned how to use the VCDS diagnostics also followed all the threads I could about the issues with VW engines in particular the CFCA.
Before removing and disassembling the engine I had a quick look to see if anything was obvious apart from what I was told by VW the engine turned freely and I could clearly see the damage to no 4 cylinder in a gouge out of the cylinder wall causing the lack of compression as it was almost at the top of piston stroke and at the time of failure this would have caused the crankcase to pressurize forcing the engine oil out of the engine through the turbo seals and crankcase ventilator and into the inlet causing the plume of white smoke and loss of power I was just short of a junction so coasted off no bangs or crunches the engine still running with no power and lots of smoke.
The thing that caught my eye was that apart from the gouge in no 4 all the cylinders looked badly scored vertically with the top edge of the piston crownes worn this would account for the poor compression on the other cylinders if valves and head gaskets were sound on getting home and searching the internet for this I came across pictures of a CFCA engine with the same scoring to the bores and it suggested it was caused by EGR valve corrosion.
This is a long story with pictures and lots of evidence to shed some light on my problem but bear with me and I will post pictures when I work out how and continue the story to bring my findings to a close.
Would appreciate any comments
Hi there, I am currently working on this engine in Tasmania/Australia and have had a great deal of issues with overheating under hi load and suspect a head/head gasket issue. Have had trouble finding a decent repair manual for this engine and noticed you managed to find one. Is this an online version or local?
 
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@Loz anychance I could get access to your glowplug removal guide and the CFCA manual. I am a newbie t5.1 180 owner and want to do a compression test

Ferris
As a VIP memeber, you should be able to download it from the link you just quoted...
 
I've posted on another thread - Healthy 180 CFCA owners?, but this might be a better one to update on. I have a 2015 T6 with 50,000 miles on the CFCA with Rev C cooler when starting this process. I had a Millers oil analysis when purchased with 4,000 miles since last oil change and it showed twice the 'allowable' aluminium content. I immediately changed the oil and did another 2,000 miles and analysed again. It is showing aluminium content again just above the 'allowable' limit. Whilst waiting for the result I had the EGR cooler pipes blocked off and EGR valve mapped out. So another oil change is planned this week post EGR blocking and I'll get another analysis done in 2,000 miles.

I've spoken to Retro Resus during this process and if there is still aluminium in the oil post EGR blocking, then it looks like a new EGR will be needed regardless of blocking off. Concern is there could be aluminium contamination of the oil coming from the oil side of the cooler than coming through the intake from the exhaust gas cooling fins. Not sure if or how that's possible or if anyone had this. Everything I have read says it comes from the exhaust gas cooling fins.

My engine has not thrown any warning codes and not so far not noticeably using any oil in the 4,000 miles I've driven. Fingers crossed it's been caught before serious damage.....!? Its a great van and ticked almost all the boxes, so would be a real shame if this engine is going down a terminal cul-de-sac.

Any other feedback on contamination of oil would be appreciated.

PS the CFCA Facebook group disappeared in recent weeks. I did try to join but never got in to read up. Is there any other good threads/forums to read? I did find this during extensive googling....
 
I've spoken to Retro Resus during this process and if there is still aluminium in the oil post EGR blocking, then it looks like a new EGR will be needed regardless of blocking off.
I don't believe this. If the pipes are blocked, they are now blocked so nothing can get into the inlet manifold. If you still see high aluminium, then you need to look at other things. Pistons etc., maybe it would still be washing out the old aluminium?.
Wait until you get the next test back.
 
I've posted on another thread - Healthy 180 CFCA owners?, but this might be a better one to update on. I have a 2015 T6 with 50,000 miles on the CFCA with Rev C cooler when starting this process. I had a Millers oil analysis when purchased with 4,000 miles since last oil change and it showed twice the 'allowable' aluminium content. I immediately changed the oil and did another 2,000 miles and analysed again. It is showing aluminium content again just above the 'allowable' limit. Whilst waiting for the result I had the EGR cooler pipes blocked off and EGR valve mapped out. So another oil change is planned this week post EGR blocking and I'll get another analysis done in 2,000 miles.

I've spoken to Retro Resus during this process and if there is still aluminium in the oil post EGR blocking, then it looks like a new EGR will be needed regardless of blocking off. Concern is there could be aluminium contamination of the oil coming from the oil side of the cooler than coming through the intake from the exhaust gas cooling fins. Not sure if or how that's possible or if anyone had this. Everything I have read says it comes from the exhaust gas cooling fins.

My engine has not thrown any warning codes and not so far not noticeably using any oil in the 4,000 miles I've driven. Fingers crossed it's been caught before serious damage.....!? Its a great van and ticked almost all the boxes, so would be a real shame if this engine is going down a terminal cul-de-sac.

Any other feedback on contamination of oil would be appreciated.

PS the CFCA Facebook group disappeared in recent weeks. I did try to join but never got in to read up. Is there any other good threads/forums to read? I did find this during extensive googling....
An oil change will not remove all of the oil in the engine, every internal part is coated plus there will be some small pools.
Every oil filter has a micron rating, this is what is removed in a single pass, anything smaller than this rating passes through the filter and will remain in the oil.
It may well be that some of the alum’ content in the oil is from worn pistons as a result of the EGR corrosion entering the bores. Unfortunately worn engine components generate more wear as the surface finish and dimensional tolerances are no longer in specification.
If the EGR cooler is blocked it is not going to cause further issues.
 
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